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$2.75 Led Replacement For 1141 Bulbs

led 1141 replacement bulbs

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#1 DennisD

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 04:32 PM

Just in case anyone is interested. We got 10 for $27.50 with quick free shipping. They are just as bright as the originals and they are the warm white. But, super cool to the touch. Very happy with them. (edit... just checked to make sure the link works; they went down 10%. Now $24.75)

1141 led replacement bulb.jpg

http://rover.ebay.co...ME:L:OC:US:3160

Edited by DennisD, 11 September 2013 - 04:35 PM.

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#2 fella10

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 06:41 PM

DennisD, I like these,.....although they have an unconventional design to them, I like that all the lights project in the same direction, .....with the other style of LED's half of the little lights are shinning to the rear

#3 DennisD

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 07:11 PM

DennisD, I like these,.....although they have an unconventional design to them, I like that all the lights project in the same direction, .....with the other style of LED's half of the little lights are shinning to the rear


Yes, I think it is more beneficial to have all the leds pointing in the proper direction. Another plus for these 'flat panel' lights, is they come with peel and stick adhesive already installed.
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#4 cmac

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Posted 12 September 2013 - 05:07 AM

DennisD Thanks, okay so I'm kind of baffled (its a girl thang) LOL, you would lake out the regular bulbs and stick that LED panel inside the light unit, do u put the cover back on? Do you wire it up? Dang can't it just be easy..
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#5 DennisD

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Posted 12 September 2013 - 06:31 AM

DennisD Thanks, okay so I'm kind of baffled (its a girl thang) LOL, you would lake out the regular bulbs and stick that LED panel inside the light unit, do u put the cover back on? Do you wire it up? Dang can't it just be easy..


Hi Cindi, it really is very easy. Removing and replacing the cover is the hard part. Replacing the bulb is super simple. Just push the bulb gently into the socket and rotate counterclockwise and then remove from the socket. The new 'bulb' comes with an adapter that fits back into the socket with the reverse motion. And then just peel the 3M adhesive film and stick the 'bulb' to the back of the light fixture. Position the wires and Now the hardest part... replace that cover ;-) Enjoy your cheap and simple led lighting.
led closeup front and back.jpg
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#6 cmac

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Posted 12 September 2013 - 09:23 AM

I can do that... :rofl2:
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#7 SeeStars

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Posted 12 September 2013 - 06:45 PM

Just in case anyone is interested. We got 10 for $27.50 with quick free shipping. They are just as bright as the originals and they are the warm white. But, super cool to the touch. Very happy with them. (edit... just checked to make sure the link works; they went down 10%. Now $24.75)

1141 led replacement bulb.jpg

http://rover.ebay.co...ME:L:OC:US:3160

Dennis, what converter do you have in your 2005 SD? Thanks. Charlie

#8 cmac

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 08:07 AM

oh free holies do I need a converter? :blush:
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#9 Rattler

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Posted 14 September 2013 - 05:59 AM

Thanks Dennis for info, I have been thinking about going to LED, you have made the process easy. Used your link and ordered mine today.
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#10 SeeStars

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Posted 14 September 2013 - 06:34 AM

The reason I mentioned the converter of the Casita is that I am digging into an LED driver problem that I have encountered in my 2002 17 FD. The problem has to do with the voltage that is driving the LEDs. It has occurred with the "bulb" style replacement in the lighting, as well as the strip LEDs that I put in my refer, the under sink cabinet, and the front door closet. In a nutshell, I have an old 6336 converter by Magnetek, now owned by Parallax Components. The 6336 has two output circuits - a charging circuit that goes to the battery and an "everything else" circuit that goes to the first six fuse locations on the fuse panel. That output is 12 VDC UNFILTERED with a 7 V RMS ripple. Whenever a capacitive load is placed on that circuit, the output voltage increases. In my Casita, it appears as if that overvoltage is over driving the LEDs and causing them to overheat, discolor, stink, and fail - in that order. I may move the lighting to the battery end of the fuse panel, which should eliminate the LED problem of the dome lighting, but not solve the lighting in the closet, cabinet, and refer because I am sourcing those LEDs from the circuits nearby, which also are UNFILTERED!

I think that the newer electronic switching converters supplied in newer Casitas are immune to the problem because the outputs of those converters are filtered in the supply.

The ultimate solution for me may be a converter upgrade, either the 7345 RU, or the PD4645.

Charlie

#11 DennisD

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 05:35 PM

Just in case anyone is interested. We got 10 for $27.50 with quick free shipping. They are just as bright as the originals and they are the warm white. But, super cool to the touch. Very happy with them. (edit... just checked to make sure the link works; they went down 10%. Now $24.75)

1141 led replacement bulb.jpg

http://rover.ebay.co...ME:L:OC:US:3160

Dennis, what converter do you have in your 2005 SD? Thanks. Charlie

Charlie, I have the Parallax 7300 series 45 amp
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#12 DennisD

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 05:43 PM

oh free holies do I need a converter? :blush:


Let's keep our fingers crossed and hope like heck that you don't. I haven't experienced any of those problems like Charlie, but... my only encounter has been on my 2005 model.
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#13 DennisD

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 06:40 PM

The reason I mentioned the converter of the Casita is that I am digging into an LED driver problem that I have encountered in my 2002 17 FD. The problem has to do with the voltage that is driving the LEDs. It has occurred with the "bulb" style replacement in the lighting, as well as the strip LEDs that I put in my refer, the under sink cabinet, and the front door closet. In a nutshell, I have an old 6336 converter by Magnetek, now owned by Parallax Components. The 6336 has two output circuits - a charging circuit that goes to the battery and an "everything else" circuit that goes to the first six fuse locations on the fuse panel. That output is 12 VDC UNFILTERED with a 7 V RMS ripple. Whenever a capacitive load is placed on that circuit, the output voltage increases. In my Casita, it appears as if that overvoltage is over driving the LEDs and causing them to overheat, discolor, stink, and fail - in that order. I may move the lighting to the battery end of the fuse panel, which should eliminate the LED problem of the dome lighting, but not solve the lighting in the closet, cabinet, and refer because I am sourcing those LEDs from the circuits nearby, which also are UNFILTERED!

I think that the newer electronic switching converters supplied in newer Casitas are immune to the problem because the outputs of those converters are filtered in the supply.

The ultimate solution for me may be a converter upgrade, either the 7345 RU, or the PD4645.

Charlie


Charlie, sure hate to hear about your problems. Looks like either upgrade should fix those and more. I think I might lean towards the PD4645; because of the Charge Wizard 4 stage charging system.

My understanding is that my 7345 has filtered 12 vdc but, single stage charging... which is prone to overcharge the battery. The 7345T has 2 stage charging. That's still not proper battery maintenance. My recently purchased 05 just received a new battery, and my next project is to install a master switch and 'smart charger'. Good luck with your converter.
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Hope to see you on the trail...

#14 SeeStars

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 06:55 PM

The reason I mentioned the converter of the Casita is that I am digging into an LED driver problem that I have encountered in my 2002 17 FD. The problem has to do with the voltage that is driving the LEDs. It has occurred with the "bulb" style replacement in the lighting, as well as the strip LEDs that I put in my refer, the under sink cabinet, and the front door closet. In a nutshell, I have an old 6336 converter by Magnetek, now owned by Parallax Components. The 6336 has two output circuits - a charging circuit that goes to the battery and an "everything else" circuit that goes to the first six fuse locations on the fuse panel. That output is 12 VDC UNFILTERED with a 7 V RMS ripple. Whenever a capacitive load is placed on that circuit, the output voltage increases. In my Casita, it appears as if that overvoltage is over driving the LEDs and causing them to overheat, discolor, stink, and fail - in that order. I may move the lighting to the battery end of the fuse panel, which should eliminate the LED problem of the dome lighting, but not solve the lighting in the closet, cabinet, and refer because I am sourcing those LEDs from the circuits nearby, which also are UNFILTERED!

I think that the newer electronic switching converters supplied in newer Casitas are immune to the problem because the outputs of those converters are filtered in the supply.

The ultimate solution for me may be a converter upgrade, either the 7345 RU, or the PD4645.

Charlie


Charlie, sure hate to hear about your problems. Looks like either upgrade should fix those and more. I think I might lean towards the PD4645; because of the Charge Wizard 4 stage charging system.

My understanding is that my 7345 has filtered 12 vdc but, single stage charging... which is prone to overcharge the battery. The 7345T has 2 stage charging. That's still not proper battery maintenance. My recently purchased 05 just received a new battery, and my next project is to install a master switch and 'smart charger'. Good luck with your converter.


Thanks, Dennis. That is my understanding, also, of the 7345 converter, so you should have no problems with your LEDs. If am correct about the issue, and I think I am, then only people who are using unfiltered outputs to power their LEDs may experience the problems that I have. When one is not connected to shore power there is an internal relay in the 6336 that switches all circuits to the battery, which also prevents the problem. It is only when connected to shore power and using the unfiltered output that the problem is experienced. It is looking to me that since I primarily connect to shore power, that I will upgrade my converter, probably to the PD4645, or maybe the 4635 in order to avoid rewiring.

I should mention that the unfiltered output was commonly used for powering the water pump, non-electronic refer, and incandescent bulbs.

BTW, I know of someone who has a 1993 Casita Patriot 13 with an old Carson converter. He has LEDs in his Casita and is NOT experiencing any problems.

Charlie

Edited by SeeStars, 15 September 2013 - 07:00 PM.

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#15 DennisD

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 07:37 PM

The reason I mentioned the converter of the Casita is that I am digging into an LED driver problem that I have encountered in my 2002 17 FD. The problem has to do with the voltage that is driving the LEDs. It has occurred with the "bulb" style replacement in the lighting, as well as the strip LEDs that I put in my refer, the under sink cabinet, and the front door closet. In a nutshell, I have an old 6336 converter by Magnetek, now owned by Parallax Components. The 6336 has two output circuits - a charging circuit that goes to the battery and an "everything else" circuit that goes to the first six fuse locations on the fuse panel. That output is 12 VDC UNFILTERED with a 7 V RMS ripple. Whenever a capacitive load is placed on that circuit, the output voltage increases. In my Casita, it appears as if that overvoltage is over driving the LEDs and causing them to overheat, discolor, stink, and fail - in that order. I may move the lighting to the battery end of the fuse panel, which should eliminate the LED problem of the dome lighting, but not solve the lighting in the closet, cabinet, and refer because I am sourcing those LEDs from the circuits nearby, which also are UNFILTERED!

I think that the newer electronic switching converters supplied in newer Casitas are immune to the problem because the outputs of those converters are filtered in the supply.

The ultimate solution for me may be a converter upgrade, either the 7345 RU, or the PD4645.

Charlie


Charlie, sure hate to hear about your problems. Looks like either upgrade should fix those and more. I think I might lean towards the PD4645; because of the Charge Wizard 4 stage charging system.

My understanding is that my 7345 has filtered 12 vdc but, single stage charging... which is prone to overcharge the battery. The 7345T has 2 stage charging. That's still not proper battery maintenance. My recently purchased 05 just received a new battery, and my next project is to install a master switch and 'smart charger'. Good luck with your converter.


Thanks, Dennis. That is my understanding, also, of the 7345 converter, so you should have no problems with your LEDs. If am correct about the issue, and I think I am, then only people who are using unfiltered outputs to power their LEDs may experience the problems that I have. When one is not connected to shore power there is an internal relay in the 6336 that switches all circuits to the battery, which also prevents the problem. It is only when connected to shore power and using the unfiltered output that the problem is experienced. It is looking to me that since I primarily connect to shore power, that I will upgrade my converter, probably to the PD4645, or maybe the 4635 in order to avoid rewiring.

I should mention that the unfiltered output was commonly used for powering the water pump, non-electronic refer, and incandescent bulbs.

BTW, I know of someone who has a 1993 Casita Patriot 13 with an old Carson converter. He has LEDs in his Casita and is NOT experiencing any problems.

Charlie


Maybe you could start a new topic to find out if anyone else has encountered the "overpowered" LEDs
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Hope to see you on the trail...





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