I suppose it's a little late to be asking such...
What do you do to "winterize" your Honda EU2000I.
(Not late... Just early for next year).
Winterizing a Honda Generator
Started by
pdstringer42
, Feb 05 2004 08:34 PM
5 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 05 February 2004 - 08:34 PM
Paul Stringer, "Host"
Crockett, Texas
Tow = "Eggstream-II" -- 2003 17' LD;
Tug = 2006 Tundra V6
Member# 1329
Crockett, Texas
Tow = "Eggstream-II" -- 2003 17' LD;
Tug = 2006 Tundra V6
Member# 1329
#2
Posted 05 February 2004 - 10:16 PM
1. Important. Remove the side panel, find the little screw that drains the carburetor float bowl, open it to drain the carburetor. If ya let gas set in the carb, it'll evaporate and the residue will plug up the main jet. If you have trouble keeping the engine running after being unused for a time, this (clogged main jet) is where to look.
2. Syphon the gas from the tank (it has no drain). Turning it on it's side is not recommended. Wal-mart has an el-cheapo bulb type syphon hose. Boat shops have better ones.
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I Leave the oil alone. Put fresh oil in it when you're ready to fire it up.
The manual says to remove the spark plug, pull the starter rope a few times to pump gas out of the fuel pump. then add a tablespoon of oil to the cylinder..........I never did this to any of my motorcycle engines, but I suppose it's good practice?!
2. Syphon the gas from the tank (it has no drain). Turning it on it's side is not recommended. Wal-mart has an el-cheapo bulb type syphon hose. Boat shops have better ones.
=========
I Leave the oil alone. Put fresh oil in it when you're ready to fire it up.
The manual says to remove the spark plug, pull the starter rope a few times to pump gas out of the fuel pump. then add a tablespoon of oil to the cylinder..........I never did this to any of my motorcycle engines, but I suppose it's good practice?!
Don in OKC - (Useta have a) 2000 16' LD, 98 Chrysler T&C
#3
Posted 06 February 2004 - 04:23 AM
Don: I just use a stabilizer in all my equipment (put it in my gas cans when I fill them) and I have never had a problem starting or running anything. My dealer told me this was much better than draining the tank and running the carb dry. Ron
Ron & Elsie, & Pollyanna Cat
2003 Casita 17' FD
2005 Chev 2500 HD Ext Cab Duramax/Allison
2003 Casita 17' FD
2005 Chev 2500 HD Ext Cab Duramax/Allison
#4
Posted 06 February 2004 - 08:37 AM
Most engine manuals that I have seen say to change the oil before storage. When an engine runs some raw gas & combustion by-products get past the rings and contaminate the oil. As they build up they form acids & the like that can attack the insides of the engine. Running engines for short periods is particularly bad as the oil doesn't warm up enough to evaporate the water vapor (from condensation in the engine) & raw gas. Changing the oil will remove the acids & contaminants, hopefully helping protect the innards of the engine. I also agree with Ron about using stabilizer in the fuel. I have been using Sta-Bil in my fuel for my small engines & have had very good luck with it.
#5
Posted 06 February 2004 - 09:54 AM
Bill & Karen
Sarasota, Fl.
99 SD love being "Inneggsile"
12th year retiree out Inneggsile and right on schedule
Next Scheduled Camp Out: Full Timing now, May & June Camp Hosts at First Landing state Park, Virginia Beach, Va
Sarasota, Fl.
99 SD love being "Inneggsile"
12th year retiree out Inneggsile and right on schedule
Next Scheduled Camp Out: Full Timing now, May & June Camp Hosts at First Landing state Park, Virginia Beach, Va
#6
Posted 06 February 2004 - 08:25 PM
Bill and Karen...
I like your style! Seems to me that your solution makes the most sense. But I do appreciate all the others who answered my question.
Paul S
I like your style! Seems to me that your solution makes the most sense. But I do appreciate all the others who answered my question.
Paul S
Paul Stringer, "Host"
Crockett, Texas
Tow = "Eggstream-II" -- 2003 17' LD;
Tug = 2006 Tundra V6
Member# 1329
Crockett, Texas
Tow = "Eggstream-II" -- 2003 17' LD;
Tug = 2006 Tundra V6
Member# 1329










