The terminal block was a problem. The hot and neutral leads each connect to another two smaller wires, and I could not fit all three into any wire nuts. Those 2 smaller wires have crimped ends and not much slack, so I didn't want to alter them.
So I ended buying (from Lowe's) a pack of 2 "splice reducers" that allowed me to connect the wires (careful to keep them from touching each other or anything else because they are made of metal and not insulated). And then I got the 13+ volts needed, and the entry lights (which are on a shared circuit with the fridge) worked again, but not the fridge control panel.
So I checked the DC distributor panel (blade) fuse and saw it had blown. So I replaced it. Still no control panel lights. I rechecked the (cartidge) fuses in the pcb of the fridge, and discovered one of those was blown (it was not blown before this, I did check it previously). I will have to go shopping again.
My fuses seem to blow more often than they should, going back some time.
Just by chance, I noticed, while gripping one of the stabilizer jacks. that it felt like it had an electrical charge. So now I suspect that something somewhere is shorting to the frame. I don't know where to start looking. Any ideas?
Also, the rear cabin lights and fantastic fan don't work, suggesting that (or those) circuit is shorted. When I bought the camper (in 2011), the seller told me that the water heater didn't work because it's pcb had blown out.
I sure would like to get this whole electrical mystery solved soon.
Thanks for any suggestions.