12 replies to this topic

[imcadams]

First, drill out the heads of the 3 rivets holding the inside circular plastic piece:  they are rivets, and you should use a 3/16” inch drill bit.  Move the drill about as you drill, and usually the circular head will crawl up the drill bit.  After you remove the circular plastic piece, you can push out the rest of the rivet and get rid of it. 

 

Then, go up top of your Casita.  Unscrew the 2 screws holding the top “lid” of this exhaust fan, keeping out water. 

*Note: take note of the position of this old fan assembly, for when you replace it with the new one.*

Then, drill out each of these rivets, through the blob of clear latex that kept it waterproof.  

When all rivet heads are removed, the assembly will still not really budge.  Because of the latex sealant bond. 

Therefore, take an exacto knife, and run all the way around the assembly into the join of the assembly and the roof, to begin to break that bond.  That should do it;  move it about and then lift it up. 

You can cut the two wires, from it, but far enough from the body to give you enough room to easily splice onto the new fan assembly (and maybe several times in the future, too, so don’t cut yourself short.)

 

Splice both wires, corresponding to the colors of the wires, of course.  I used appropriately-sized wire nuts. 

 

Then place fan, in place, lining up the top-hat metal base of those 2 screws you removed, towards the front. 

Now it’s time to start Riveting!  Was my first experience, riveting. 

Use a 3/4’ rivet; you can buy them from Casita, labelled as their “68 rivet”.  However, i also bought a 50-pack from Lowe’s, since it appears its the primary type used on the Casita; Aluminum, Long Rivet, 3/16”/5mm shank, with a grip of 1/2”/12mm (Arrow classified as needing to use the Yellow rivet head, if that’s the kind of rivet gun you own). 

Primarily, while applying pressure on the handle, cranking in the pressure, also put pressure on the top of the head of the gun, so that when it snaps in the rivet, it’s an absolute tight connection. 

(Btw, Casita apparently uses rivets rather than screws, since the latter will make the fiberglass crack over time). 

 

One by one rivet in the new fan assembly. 

Since it’s not exactly flat, do the best you can, but the gap will have to be made up with the use of extra Sealant (Btw I used: “ProFlexRV”, just because heard good things about it. Worked well for me; Very sticky). 

Seal once all the way around, including putting a little “glob” on the head of each rivet like they did at the factory.  Screw the head back on, with those two screws, and ‘blob’ those heads too.   Then, the next day i went back and finalized my application of sealant all the way around the assembly.   And that’s IT for that part!

 

Finally, back inside the bathroom, I replaced the new circular piece of white plastic into the fan, and mounted with 3 more of these same rivets.  Then, since we leave ours plugged in, i pushed the red button and .... wallah!!!  It worked!  Your’e done. 

 

We bought the whole fan assembly for about $65 here: http://www.etrailer....e/VP-543SP.html

 

For more information on replacing only parts of this fan assembly,  see the posting: 'The Little Bathroom Fan/exhaust'. 

​Thanks so much to those guys for leading me in the right direction to start with.  

 

Good luck!  It’s really not that big of a deal.  Probably took me 1 1/2 hours after collecting all the tools and parts. 

 

Happy camping!

 

-Ian McAdams

 

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[Euphoria]

Personally, I wouldn't remove the fan base ring. I'd just "steal" the switch and motor out of the new one and install them from the top. They're accessible from outside the trailer. Removing the whole fan base isn't necessary. Just making a lot of extra work for yourself.

 

Or you can save some money. Just buy these replacement parts, and not spend the money for a whole new fan and creating a lot of unnecessary grief for yourself.

 

https://www.etrailer.../BV0199-03.html

https://www.etrailer...BVD0218-00.html0

https://www.etrailer...BVD0217-00.html

Edited by Euphoria, 29 July 2019 - 07:45 AM.

[Carol Christensen]

Thanks for the step by step on how to replace the entire fan.  There are those who will take advantage of it so it's good to have it out there.

[imcadams]

Personally, I wouldn't remove the fan base ring. I'd just "steal" the switch and motor out of the new one and install them from the top. They're accessible from outside the trailer. Removing the whole fan base isn't necessary. Just making a lot of extra work for yourself.
 
Or you can save some money. Just buy these replacement parts, and not spend the money for a whole new fan and creating a lot of unnecessary grief for yourself.
 
https://www.etrailer.../BV0199-03.html
https://www.etrailer...BVD0218-00.html0
https://www.etrailer...BVD0217-00.html

[imcadams]

Yeah? Id like to see that! Would you post a step-by-step?

[Euphoria]

Yeah? Id like to see that! Would you post a step-by-step?

On the outside translucent fan cover, there are two screws in that cover, each covered with a glob of silicone sealant, (as you had mentioned above, so I know that you already know about them.) Remove the sealant, remove the screws, and remove the cover. Then you can get to the round fan blade to remove it as well. From there you can access all the internal components without the need to remove the entire fan assembly.

 

I'd also recommend that if you intend to remove the inside handle and bug screen, requiring the removal of some very small screws from the inside of the bathroom compartment, to tape over your sink drain and shower floor drain in the event that the little screws get away from you, and I'd bet money that they will probably do it more than once, (ask me how I know this.)

Edited by Euphoria, 01 August 2019 - 01:24 PM.

[imcadams]

Thanks for the info!
The reason i didnt really consider doing it that way is because it looked like there were troublesome little rivets holding the motor etc. on the frame of the fan. Was it not a big deal to re-rivet those? And how did you get them out, drilling, or with a wire cutter, or some other way?

[Euphoria]

It's basically a mechanic's version of "open heart surgery." Yes, it's a cramped area to work in, and it took some judicious Dremel tool operation but it is do-able. You can access the switch from down below after removing the pull/push handle and the screen to get to the wiring connections. Not that what you did was in any way wrong, it's just a different approach to the same end without having to pull the whole thing out of the trailer.

Edited by Euphoria, 05 August 2019 - 11:17 AM.

[imcadams]

👍

[CalCop]

It’s always great to have options in doing the same repair
Thanks to the both of you for the write up

[Linda & Bob, K4TAX]

Any thoughts to adding a vent fan to a 1999 17' SD that doesn't have one?     

 

I normally open the bath window a bit and set the Fantastic fan to blow air inside thus forcing the air out the open bath window.  Not my favorite way of doing things. 

 

Bob, K4TAX

[Euphoria]

Hi Bob,

If you have a spot on the roof over the shower/bathroom where there isn't too much curvature, (for the fan base to properly seal to the fiberglass shell,) it shouldn't be a big problem. Probably the hardest part will be "snaking" new 12 volt wires under the carpeting, and then between the molded fiberglass bathroom compartment and the trailer's outer shell fiberglass to come out where you make the hole for the fan. I had lost power to my fan, and I had no way to see exactly where the wire was parted without ripping out the overhead carpeting, which I wasn't about to do. I found it easier to just abandon the old wires and pull a couple of new wires in from the front closet and snake them under the carpeting on the roof over to the fan. You could probably also steal power from the front convenience light over the propane tanks as an alternative source. 

When I installed my front "porthole" window, I made a small hole, (after many measurements, markings and a lot of "eyeballing,") to make sure it was centered properly, I then kept enlarging the hole until it was the size I needed. I'm not sure what the early models had in the way of bathroom compartmentalization, but mine had carpeting sandwiched between the molded fiberglass bathroom/shower stall and the trailer shell itself. Since the carpeting is only attached to the outer shell, I just pulled the new leads in over the top of the shower enclosure, without having to go underneath the glued-on carpeting itself.

 

Here's a couple of pics of my new front porthole window. My roof fan is mounted straight up from it, centered on the roof.

Good luck with your project,

 

Greg

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Edited by Euphoria, 28 August 2019 - 07:42 AM.

[Linda & Bob, K4TAX]

Hi Bob,

If you have a spot on the roof over the shower/bathroom where there isn't too much curvature, (for the fan base to properly seal to the fiberglass shell,) it shouldn't be a big problem. Probably the hardest part will be "snaking" new 12 volt wires under the carpeting, and then between the molded fiberglass bathroom compartment and the trailer's outer shell fiberglass to come out where you make the hole for the fan. I had lost power to my fan, and I had no way to see exactly where the wire was parted without ripping out the overhead carpeting, which I wasn't about to do. I found it easier to just abandon the old wires and pull a couple of new wires in from the front closet and snake them under the carpeting on the roof over to the fan. You could probably also steal power from the front convenience light over the propane tanks as an alternative source. 

When I installed my front "porthole" window, I made a small hole, (after many measurements, markings and a lot of "eyeballing,") to make sure it was centered properly, I then kept enlarging the hole until it was the size I needed. I'm not sure what the early models had in the way of bathroom compartmentalization, but mine had carpeting sandwiched between the molded fiberglass bathroom/shower stall and the trailer shell itself. Since the carpeting is only attached to the outer shell, I just pulled the new leads in over the top of the shower enclosure, without having to go underneath the glued-on carpeting itself.

 

Here's a couple of pics of my new front porthole window. My roof fan is mounted straight up from it, centered on the roof.

Good luck with your project,

 

Greg

 

Thanks Greg.   Good insight to follow.   Haven't decided if it is a yes or no project.   I'll need to find a fan kit and see what's involved.   Thanks.

 

Bob, K4TAX