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Why Are T Valves Used?


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#1 Meadowlark

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 03:02 PM

We recently upgraded our black/gray drains system to incorporate LHC's fast gray drain.

The kit does NOT include a black tank T valve. We figured that, as long as we're replacing the rest of the system, why not put in a new black tank T valve as well. We purchased a new black tank T valve from an RV store and installed it as part of the whole upgrade process. 

 

It leaks. We discovered that BEFORE we used it, using water. The instructions for installation are scant at best, are virtually useless. I believe it advises to NOT tighten the four mounting bolts too tightly.

 

I'm not sure why it's leaking. It's brand new. I think I remember seeing that there was a gap between the side of the 'curtain' and the housing, but...that may just be my imagination, and we've not dismounted it to see why it's leaking. Yet.

 

The question arises in my mind...given that the T valves are subject to drying out, and sometimes failing altogether; the stem sometimes pulling out completely; sometimes the O rings getting buggered up or an installer not getting it exactly smuck on in the so called 'groove'  for the O ring, which I have found is virtually non-existent, etc, why are they used AT ALL?

Why not use a simple ball valve?

Is there some reason why this particular system that seems to be susceptible to problems is the preferred installation for RV's/trailers, etc???


These are the voyages of the small ship, "Grus Egg".

2011 17" Spirit Deluxe, "Grus Egg"

 

"Civilization began when we stopped eating horses and began riding them."


#2 Mark P

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 04:12 PM

My guesses:  Cost?  And, they actually do work for years when properly installed and maintained?

 

We drain our tanks dry before coming home from a trip. Then I spray the valves liberally with silicone before putting the trailer away.  That keeps the gaskets from drying out or getting "buggered".  Altogether, pretty maintenance-free.   

On the road; sometimes there is a tablespoon full or two of black tank seepage, which seems to depend on how full the tank is + how long the valve has had to hold back the pressure (there is quite a bit of psi against the valve when the tank gets a few days full, compounded by bouncing down the road).

 

So, does the "fast drain" drain appreciably faster?


Mark and Ann
2007 17' FD
2017 Ram Laramie 1500


#3 jwpark

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 05:18 PM

My guesses:  Cost?  And, they actually do work for years when properly installed and maintained?

 

We drain our tanks dry before coming home from a trip. Then I spray the valves liberally with silicone before putting the trailer away.  That keeps the gaskets from drying out or getting "buggered".  Altogether, pretty maintenance-free.   

On the road; sometimes there is a tablespoon full or two of black tank seepage, which seems to depend on how full the tank is + how long the valve has had to hold back the pressure (there is quite a bit of psi against the valve when the tank gets a few days full, compounded by bouncing down the road).

 

So, does the "fast drain" drain appreciably faster?

It really isn't that much pressure against the gate. Fresh water: exerts 0.43 psi per 1 foot  of height.  

jwpark



#4 Meadowlark

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 06:23 PM

I don't honestly see the fast drain draining appreciably faster but perhaps I'm not clear on what it means. The first rush of water from the gray is obvious but we still get the dribbling for a while.  And then, again, I'm not doing the draining, normally. I'm the one inside the Casita hosing the toilet.  But I do like that, should I have to change out the gray water T valve, now I don't have to search for the smaller one. I don't understand why there is a size difference in the first place.

 

We seldom travel with the tanks full. We dump any time we have the opportunity, because there have been times when we were in a primitive/ dry camp site where we didn't have a dump site available. I'd rather go in empty than have a few days accumulation. I know, it's said that one shouldn't dump until the tank is almost filled...but.........it's okay. So far we've not had problems.

 

I've started keeping a glop of 'toilet seal' lube in the toilet and will start keeping some seal lube in the pipes during the winter. We keep a heater going in the camper during the winter, more for keeping mildew down in our wet, wet winters.

 

But again, I wonder why the T valve is used in the first place. It  seems to me that there are more potential problems than benefits. 


These are the voyages of the small ship, "Grus Egg".

2011 17" Spirit Deluxe, "Grus Egg"

 

"Civilization began when we stopped eating horses and began riding them."


#5 madjack

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 07:53 PM

The only thing I could think besides cost is ball valves when closed cam(possibly) trap some liquid in the passage which can freeze causing damage...I dunno......
madjack😎

Edited by madjack, 07 August 2018 - 07:54 PM.

Jack and Marlene driving a.......'99 GMC 1500 Sierra SLE ext cab.......max suspension/cooling package..........5.3l V8auto w/200,000 mi and still hummin' along..........