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Refresher On Poly Glow Please

for my 2003 17SD

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#1 Dutchman

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 12:28 PM

Just had my 2003 17SD power washed and lots of oxidation removed.  It has a nice shine now. Next I want to wax it easy like.  I'm not lazy but rotator cuff pain prevents me from applying force with my right arm.

 

My  understanding of Poly Glow is that it is spread on and wiped dry in multiple coats, without force. Is that indeed the way to do it?

 

I'm looking for feedback on how well it lasts, especially in the heat of the southern deserts.

 

Thanks,

Dutchman


Edouard Trautwein, #1372  

'03 17SD "Pura Vida"
'99 Toyota 4Runner, 3.4L V6 -

 

Casita living - Luxury on two wheels.

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#2 clairemr1

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 12:37 PM

ed, since your casita now has a "nice shine", why not just wax it (or have someone else do it) with a quality wax like Meguire's? from what i've heard, poly glow is primarily used on trailers that have lost most of their shine & are more chalky than anything else. friends report that poly glow yellows over time & is difficult to remove when you need to reapply it.

    i asked during a factory tour one time what they recommend. the man said to only use a quality wax. i wouldn't personally use poly glow unless i had to.


Edited by clairemr1, 08 May 2018 - 01:03 PM.

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#3 clover

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 04:36 PM

Ed

 

We both have the same vintage of Casita. Mine was very chalky and dirty when I got it. I have used both Poly-glo and RedMax Pro (now called Zep wet look)

https://tinyurl.com/zep3wetlook

You can find the later at any big box store like Home Depo or Lowe's.

 

Poli glow is more expensive https://poliglow-int.com/

 

I've done 7 different Casitas using both products. More have been with RedMax. The longevity is about the same for both 2-5 years. On the long side is the ones covered or stored inside a building. I know of one guy south of her that has his still looking good after 8 years. I use to keep my covered when not in use with a Calmark cover and it lasted 4 years. Where it will peel or yellow is the top and whatever side sits in the sun. I've done mine 4 times over the past 10 years, it is due for a refresh this year on the top and front. 

 

The key is the advanced prep. Getting it very clean. I us barkeepers friend to get all of the stain and sap off of the surface. What ever is on the surface will remain there if you cover it with either product. Pick a day that is not going to be real windy so you don't have "stuff" blowing and sticking to the surface. I find a sunny day in the 80s works great. 

 

It is very "runny" that is a watery consistency so don't just slop it on or you will have "run" marks. I first experimented on the roof where no one would see my mistakes. You don't have to get up on top, just get on a ladder and experiment as far in as you can reach. Since you have both vertical and horizontal surfaces to practice on. 

 

A lint free small cloth has worked best for me. Something kinda of small not a big sloppy rag. I've tried sponges and it has not worked for me. The Casita will suck up a lot of finish before you will see any changes. It might be 3-4 coats before you notice it starting to look better. Just about as fast as you apply it will dry. Start in an area and work your way around the Casita and when you get back to the beginning, start another layer of finish. Make sure you don't get your rag dirty because that is what your finish will look like. I had to help a friend here in town when he made the mistake of letting the rag get dirty and he had big ugly swirl marks all over his Casita. 

 

The part that takes the longest is the "prep" to get it real clean. I generally put 5-6 coats on my Casita. It looks great and cleans up much easier after each trip. Bugs & dirt don't stick as tight. I usually get everything done in  the better part of a day.

 

Don't put it on your door or any of the plastic accessories like the vent caps or the plastice stove vent. 

 

It is not that hard to remove. I had to experiment a lot to find the best way to remove the finish. I tried all of the prescribed methods from Poli  Glow and RedMax/Zep. They gave a mixing ratio of water:stripper to remove the stuff. Both were barely effective and way too much work. I got frustrated and used full strength Zep floor stripper in a spray bottle. It works best with these exact conditions. Have the Casita bone dry have a water hose with a spray nozzle in one hand and the floor stripper in a pump bottle in the other. Spray full strength stripper on the area you want to remove the finish and you will almost immediately see the finish turn yellow and start to slide off in sheets, immediately spray down with a lot of water. Only do a small area at a time. Then move onto the next area. I use this method on a smaller area if I have made a mistake in my application of a new coat of finish.  

 

I tried Marine waxes on mine before I went the RedMax Pro road and had no luck in it looking really good or lasting more than 4-6 months. I even hired a boat detail guy to buff it out with his power equipment. It took him just as long as doing the RedMax and it didn't last much longer than 6 months. 

 

There was a long term heated discussion ArizonaEileen kept going on the other forum praising Poli Glow because they touted having some sore of UV protection. I could not find anything in their ingredients that indicated this to be a fact. I believe she found out as did others who reported on that forum that it was not better than the RedMax Pro (Zep).

 

There is not going to be any "easy way" to keep our Casitas shinny as they age. 


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Happy Trails!
Clover
2003 17' SD
2002 F350 Diesel Crew Cab
(I know it is overkill but we live on a real ranch it takes a vacation with the Casita)


#4 Dutchman

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Posted 08 May 2018 - 05:00 PM

Thanks, Clover, for your extensive report.  My challenge will be that I live full time in mine,  my Casita is always outside and in all kinds of weather.  Like a cloudless 96 degrees today in Deming, New Mexico.  I just had my Casita power washed so it is clean. Perhaps I'll wait until I hit the mountains and perhaps a shady campsite.  I'll read up on the choices you mentioned.

 

Claire - thanks for your input as well.  Meanwhile, a neighbor in the park prefers Lucas products and now I am more confused.  

 

Dutchman


Edited by Dutchman, 09 May 2018 - 05:54 AM.

Edouard Trautwein, #1372  

'03 17SD "Pura Vida"
'99 Toyota 4Runner, 3.4L V6 -

 

Casita living - Luxury on two wheels.

HOME IS WHERE I PARK IT !   


#5 mopkat

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Posted 09 May 2018 - 07:37 AM

Dutchman, I have a 2001 that was VERY chalky when I bought it. I was watching the discussion on the other forum when they decided that Poly-Glo and Red Max/ZEP maybe were not the way to go. But I had to do something.

 

I bought a rotary buffer from Harbor Freight and some buffing compound and went to work. I could barely get a slight shine when I got the oxidation off. I purchased a gallon of ZEP Floor finish and added 7 coats to get a great shine.

This seems to be where most folks stop but I decided I'd try to protect the ZEP, which is a polymer.

 

I have always used Nu-Finish, which is a polymer also, to wax my autos. So I added 2 coats of Nu-Finish to the Casita. This was last summer so we'll have to see how well it holds up. I am planning to wax it at least once a year with the Nu-Finish.

 

So far so good, but it was a lot of labor in the buffing.

 

If you have a good shine on it already I'd probably just wax it. I don't like the idea of the natural waxes that only last a few months. Nu-Finish, applied as directed, is supposed to be a once a year wax.


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#6 clairemr1

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Posted 10 May 2018 - 10:05 AM

Dutchman, I have a 2001 that was VERY chalky when I bought it. I was watching the discussion on the other forum when they decided that Poly-Glo and Red Max/ZEP maybe were not the way to go. But I had to do something.

 

I bought a rotary buffer from Harbor Freight and some buffing compound and went to work. I could barely get a slight shine when I got the oxidation off. I purchased a gallon of ZEP Floor finish and added 7 coats to get a great shine.

This seems to be where most folks stop but I decided I'd try to protect the ZEP, which is a polymer.

 

I have always used Nu-Finish, which is a polymer also, to wax my autos. So I added 2 coats of Nu-Finish to the Casita. This was last summer so we'll have to see how well it holds up. I am planning to wax it at least once a year with the Nu-Finish.

 

So far so good, but it was a lot of labor in the buffing.

 

If you have a good shine on it already I'd probably just wax it. I don't like the idea of the natural waxes that only last a few months. Nu-Finish, applied as directed, is supposed to be a once a year wax.

    please report back once you know how the nu finish does. it may be too late to help ed at that point, but it sure will help those of us who will be in the same position in a few years. it's so hard to see the pretty new shine take such a beating in the sun. it would be nice if nu finish works well. thanks


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#7 Dutchman

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Posted 10 May 2018 - 11:39 AM

Nope, it's not too late for Ed - I'm still gathering info.  In the meantime I have had done (is that good English?) a Powerwash and oxidation removal service. Which cleaned up the chalky shell. So all I have to do is decide on a good wax.  I'll go the rotary buffer route and do it slow.

 

Dutchman


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Edouard Trautwein, #1372  

'03 17SD "Pura Vida"
'99 Toyota 4Runner, 3.4L V6 -

 

Casita living - Luxury on two wheels.

HOME IS WHERE I PARK IT !   


#8 clover

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Posted 10 May 2018 - 12:44 PM

one of the challenges is the chalking surface with the gel-coat gone due to UV rays and weather makes it soak-up what ever you apply like a very thirsty sponge. 

 

i found that different areas of the Casita might take 5 coats to get the desired shine where others might take 7-8 or more, i seems to correlate to the amount of sunlight exposure (ie the top, front or "west" facing side of the Casita. 

 

there is not going to be any easy or "forever" solution to keeping a shine

 

closest to "forever" would be an expensive "wrap", i recently saw a very old wrap that was maintaining the finish but it was as ugly a pattern as i've ever seen.  sisters on the fly come thru here twice a year, it seems to be a contest on who has the most bling or outlandish small (preferable vintage) camper. the pictures were taken on a dark cloudy day, this was 2002 Casita the wrap had a patina finish (the black scuff looking marks) to make it look vintage, however it did have a distinct shine to it. 

 

 

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Happy Trails!
Clover
2003 17' SD
2002 F350 Diesel Crew Cab
(I know it is overkill but we live on a real ranch it takes a vacation with the Casita)


#9 Dutchman

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Posted 11 May 2018 - 01:52 AM

A wee bit over the top, this one, me thinks.  Looks like it was tattood.   I've met a group of Sister on the Fly where they showed of their beautiful small trailers. Their vintage trailers were done up very retro and attractive, with about as feminine interiors as I've seen in a group.

 

The search for the perfect wax continues.  I saw one Casita that had been treated with Poly Glow; it had an incredible shine. However, Claire's comment makes me pause - unless I want a yellow Casita  :blush:

 

Dutchman


Edouard Trautwein, #1372  

'03 17SD "Pura Vida"
'99 Toyota 4Runner, 3.4L V6 -

 

Casita living - Luxury on two wheels.

HOME IS WHERE I PARK IT !   


#10 clover

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Posted 11 May 2018 - 06:22 AM

The search for the perfect wax continues.  I saw one Casita that had been treated with Poly Glow; it had an incredible shine. However, Claire's comment makes me pause - unless I want a yellow Casita  :blush:

 

Dutchman

As I said there is not going to be anything easy or permanent to keep anything shinny

 

What can happen with either poli glow or Zep is peeling (which is what I've seen the most) and/or some yellowing.

This can easily be removed with the method I described above. 

 

The Meguiar's is another alternative  and will also dull with time. 

 

I recall another product used and discussed. It was a one time discussion. I'll see if I can find it. 

 

My experience with Poli Glow and ZEP is first hand and "hands on" more than a dozen time AND  not what I heard from someone else


Happy Trails!
Clover
2003 17' SD
2002 F350 Diesel Crew Cab
(I know it is overkill but we live on a real ranch it takes a vacation with the Casita)


#11 clairemr1

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Posted 11 May 2018 - 07:12 AM

ed, you might think about painting yours as well. perhaps less expensive than wraps. i've seen some very attractive trailers painted and they looked great. many were several years old and seem to maintain the color without fading and without the need to "redo" the whole process.. i personally wouldn't want to go through all of the work that poly glow requires, ( my retirement time is valuable to me, LOL) it's obviously a very labor intensive coating both to apply and to strip/reapply. several  who have done it have reported not being all that satisfied with the results. you might want to do a search on the other site too to get "first hand" reports from several users to get a more diverse and unbiased opinion.

    be sure to let us know what you end up with, safe travels.


Edited by clairemr1, 11 May 2018 - 07:41 AM.

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#12 clover

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Posted 11 May 2018 - 11:41 AM

here a few of the alternatives that have been suggested on "the other forum", this forum and www.fiberglassrv.com (which has the most methods tried). 

All are multi step solutions requiring much time and elbow grease

 

There is no "easy" method once it has gone to chalk

 

My "biased" report that lacked diversity was because Ed asked for details on using Poli Glow or Zep

 

Glare Plus Professional Polish –

Buff Magic

Nu Finish

Protect All FIBERGLASS Oxidation Remover & Color Restorer

Meguiars or BTS(bow to stern) for Casitas that still have a shiny gelcoat

Collonite Paste Wax, after an thorough application of Collonite FG Cleaner

Rejex


Edited by clover, 11 May 2018 - 11:44 AM.

Happy Trails!
Clover
2003 17' SD
2002 F350 Diesel Crew Cab
(I know it is overkill but we live on a real ranch it takes a vacation with the Casita)


#13 mopkat

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Posted 11 May 2018 - 12:43 PM

If someone was thinking on painting to have a shine, I would look into clear coating.

 

Most autos now have a clear coat on top of the paint. Fiberglass cars included.

 

 If you are going to go to the trouble to paint, which would entail bare fiberglass, what would be wrong with just getting the fiberglass bare and clean and having someone shoot it with clear coat? The cost would be about the same as painting I would think. 

 

Just throwing it out there. 


Edited by mopkat, 11 May 2018 - 12:47 PM.

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#14 clairemr1

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Posted 12 May 2018 - 06:47 AM

thanks, mopkat. clear coat sounds like a good alternative that might be less work in the long run. definitely worth checking out. perhaps ed is lucky and he can get away with just a good waxing at this point. all sorts of ways to skin this cat, LOL


Edited by clairemr1, 12 May 2018 - 06:48 AM.

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#15 mopkat

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Posted 12 May 2018 - 06:57 AM

Yeah Claire, I was a long way from doing the clear coat simply because of the cost involved. For less than $75 I was able to buy everything that I needed to do it with the Zeps/Nu-Finish. Just a fair amount of labor. Labor I have, money, not so much.

 

I hope Ed finds what satisfies him.


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