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Lookie What Followed Me Home..


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#31 CC-John

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 06:46 PM

Managed to get a few good licks in on the Century's little Mopar every evening this week, while not quite ready for prime time, it's getting closer.. Engine restorations always seem to grind down to a snail's pace when they get down to hanging all the little stuff on 'em, cutting & fitting cooling hoses, cleaning up wire harnesses and all the other little detail work seem to take forever, but it's all worth it in the end when ya lift the engine hatch to show it off..

34852361823_238ba073f4_b.jpg100_2749 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35274265410_da6e011e14_b.jpg100_2747 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34852359443_68519098c3_b.jpg100_2748 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35274270170_7fa24a3f08_b.jpg100_2750 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35274271640_fdca85b2ce_b.jpg100_2751 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35274280120_d28eef4fdf_b.jpg100_2754 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34852377653_3a2e7a8c37_b.jpg100_2755 by cc_john67, on Flickr

After scouring the web for pics of original and restored Chrysler Marine 318's, I found enough pics of the original fuel line that goes from the pump to the carburetor that I could fabricate a new one from scratch, the original factory lines have been NLA for close to 20 years..

 

34852372793_768217cfbe_b.jpg100_2753 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35274273730_2c5a1c542f_b.jpg100_2752 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34852379783_724480ce06_b.jpg100_2756 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Next up will be freshening up the Velvet Drive transmission with new seals, gaskets, and paint before mounting it to the engine.. Once it's all assembled and set in the test cradle, it will be fired up and run to set the timing & carburetor adjustments, and to check for any leaks before it gets set back in the boat..


Edited by CC-John, 18 July 2017 - 02:56 PM.

CC-John

 

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FGRV #1 1973 Century Resorter 16 - Powered by Chrysler LM318 225HP V-8
 
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FGRV #2 1978 Chris*Craft 251 Catalina Express - Powered by PCM 383 Chevy V-8 340HP
 
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#32 madjack

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    About me...20+yrs as a commercial OTR driver, logging over 2million accident free miles...previous to that, 20 yrs in the construction trades...owned a few travel trailers and teardrop campers along with more single and double axle utility trailers than I can count and as such have hauled everything from a nail, a 2x4, vehicles, construction equipment of all kinds all the way up to 100,000# steel beams, chemicals and other heavy haul and haz-mat item(s)
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Posted 24 March 2017 - 07:49 PM

sweet!!! very sweet indeed...cant wait to hear it run;).......mj
Jack and Marlene driving a.......'99 GMC 1500 Sierra SLE ext cab.......max suspension/cooling package..........5.3l V8auto w/200,000 mi and still hummin' along..........

#33 CC-John

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Posted 25 March 2017 - 03:08 AM



sweet!!! very sweet indeed...cant wait to hear it run;).......mj

 

Thanks!! I'm ready to hear it bark to life too!

 

It was sooooo tempting to drop one of Mancini's "stroker" kits in this little 318 and boost it up to 390 cubic inches.. Having 340+ horsepower on tap in a 16' boat would have made it the ultimate "sleeper".. It probably would have boosted the top speed from 45-50 MPH to somewhere around 65-70 MPH.. :ph34r:

 

I'm a firm believer in the "no substitute for cubic inches" philosophy.. Here's a video of the test run of the 383 "stroker" (Chevy 350) that I built for my Chris craft cruiser, it makes a solid 340 horsepower and 450 pound-feet of torque burning 87 octane pump gas.. It will hustle that nearly 7000# cabin cruiser to just over 30 MPH..

 


Edited by CC-John, 18 July 2017 - 02:57 PM.

CC-John

 

"I void warranties"
 
FGRV #1 1973 Century Resorter 16 - Powered by Chrysler LM318 225HP V-8
 
BOAT PICS
 
FGRV #2 1978 Chris*Craft 251 Catalina Express - Powered by PCM 383 Chevy V-8 340HP
 
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FGRV #3 2007 Casita 17SD - Powered by Onan CampPower 2500LP
 
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#34 Euphoria

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Posted 25 March 2017 - 11:15 AM

Got that motor looking pretty sweet there John! Nice restoration work.


"If I have seen a little further, it is by standing on the shoulders of giants."

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#35 CC-John

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Posted 25 March 2017 - 05:50 PM

Got that motor looking pretty sweet there John! Nice restoration work.

 

Thanks Greg!!

 

I've been trying to get the engine finished up so I can move on to replacing the floor in the boat before the engine goes back in..


CC-John

 

"I void warranties"
 
FGRV #1 1973 Century Resorter 16 - Powered by Chrysler LM318 225HP V-8
 
BOAT PICS
 
FGRV #2 1978 Chris*Craft 251 Catalina Express - Powered by PCM 383 Chevy V-8 340HP
 
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#36 CC-John

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Posted 25 March 2017 - 06:18 PM

NOTE: Sorry about the rather "clinical" text, the following transmission posts are copied from my restoration thread over at FiberGlassics..

 

The seal & gasket kit for the little Mopar's transmission came in this week so I tore down the transmission this afternoon to get it ready for a new set of seals & gaskets..

 

35640042806_ed4171a649_b.jpg100_2757 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35640043526_952c4b2e71_b.jpg100_2758 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

Here's the patient prepped for surgery.. The deep, large aluminum baking sheets from Sam's Club make great teardown pans for stuff like this, they keep any residual fluids captive and corral any small parts that try to escape..

 

35640044126_6575b2c4e0_b.jpg100_2759 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

Disassembly starts by removing the oil pump and the front adapter plate/reverse piston exposing the reverse clutch pressure plate..

 

35640043916_d70168fc3b_b.jpg100_2760 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679313295_111de58e69_b.jpg100_2761 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34838443464_d1698fee10_b.jpg100_2762 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679313705_f602819481_b.jpg100_2763 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

Removing the reverse pressure plate exposes the bronze reverse clutch plate..

 

35679314095_ecab6ef9ed_b.jpg100_2765 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34838444104_a0112760d3_b.jpg100_2764 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

Grabbing the input shaft and lifting straight up removes the forward clutch assembly, this exposes the planetary gearset/output shaft.. Flipping the case over and removing the retaining nut on the output flange allows the planetary/output shaft to be removed from the case..

 

34838444704_0b31fd8b81_b.jpg100_2766 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679314505_0e2b92ab57_b.jpg100_2767 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

An hour and a half in front of the parts washer resulted in a pile of clean parts and case..

 

35640045976_6eee154bbb_b.jpg100_2768 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679315005_6b8a4d553f_b.jpg100_2769 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

All that's left to do tomorrow is to drag the hydraulic press from the back of the garage so I can break down the forward clutch to be cleaned before installing new sealing rings then reassembling it..

 

35640046276_6bf8cb9c33_b.jpg100_2770 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

Hopefully, I'll get this pile of parts reassembled and ready for a couple coats of paint by tomorrow afternoon..


Edited by CC-John, 18 July 2017 - 03:10 PM.

CC-John

 

"I void warranties"
 
FGRV #1 1973 Century Resorter 16 - Powered by Chrysler LM318 225HP V-8
 
BOAT PICS
 
FGRV #2 1978 Chris*Craft 251 Catalina Express - Powered by PCM 383 Chevy V-8 340HP
 
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#37 madjack

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    About me...20+yrs as a commercial OTR driver, logging over 2million accident free miles...previous to that, 20 yrs in the construction trades...owned a few travel trailers and teardrop campers along with more single and double axle utility trailers than I can count and as such have hauled everything from a nail, a 2x4, vehicles, construction equipment of all kinds all the way up to 100,000# steel beams, chemicals and other heavy haul and haz-mat item(s)
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Posted 26 March 2017 - 07:33 AM

...really sweet video...any gearhead gotta love those sounds...
...a good bud of mine put one of those 383 strokers in his 95 short bed/cab PU...originally built for a Kentucky rock crawler, it was dynoed right at 600 horses...to make it more streetable he de-tuned it to around 400 (orso)...made a heckuva sleeper...he
won a few bucks off of that truck.........
madjack
Jack and Marlene driving a.......'99 GMC 1500 Sierra SLE ext cab.......max suspension/cooling package..........5.3l V8auto w/200,000 mi and still hummin' along..........

#38 Jerrybob

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Posted 26 March 2017 - 11:05 AM

Very very nice restoration John.....been fun watching all the pieces coming together.  Keep up the good work.......you keeping the boat when it is all done?



#39 CC-John

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Posted 26 March 2017 - 07:46 PM

Very very nice restoration John.....been fun watching all the pieces coming together.  Keep up the good work.......you keeping the boat when it is all done?

 

Thanks Jerry!!

 

This little boat is gonna be a keeper, I've been wanting an early Resorter for over 20 years..


CC-John

 

"I void warranties"
 
FGRV #1 1973 Century Resorter 16 - Powered by Chrysler LM318 225HP V-8
 
BOAT PICS
 
FGRV #2 1978 Chris*Craft 251 Catalina Express - Powered by PCM 383 Chevy V-8 340HP
 
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#40 CC-John

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Posted 26 March 2017 - 07:52 PM

I got up early this morning and dug out my hydraulic press from it's hole in the back of the garage so I could break down and reassemble the forward clutch.. Once I removed a couple of snap rings from the input shaft, a few minutes in the press resulted in a pile of parts in the tray..

35292297910_3e239ae1d8_b.jpg100_2771 by cc_john67, on Flickr

The "War Department" woke up and wanted breakfast, so after we got back home I pitched everything in the parts washer for a good scrubbing..

35640047066_a69f75b621_b.jpg100_2772 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Now it's time to start reassembling this puzzle.. We'll start out by reinstalling all the pressure test plugs and cooler outlet elbow with fresh thread sealer.. Next, is to install the pump intake strainer in the bottom of the case along with it's retainer bushing.. The cooler outlet elbow have temporary plugs installed in them that will be removed when it's time to connect the oil cooler lines..

35679315915_8d24ed799d_b.jpg100_2773 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35640047716_cd830d4483_b.jpg100_2774 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35292299030_836268c660_b.jpg100_2775 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35640048166_3dc724045c_b.jpg100_2776 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35292299600_e6cb417351_b.jpg100_2777 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35640048806_1df50eb5a1_b.jpg100_2778 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Now it's time to install the oil baffle in the case, it snaps over a pair of large rectangular lugs that are cast in to each side of the case..

 

35510362602_d249f5f10b_b.jpg100_2779 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35640049266_c5b0f9c297_b.jpg100_2780 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Next up is to install the planetary/output shaft in the case.. The case bushings get lubed up with a coat of Vaseline along with the output shaft before installing the planetary in to the case.. To install the output shaft bearing, flip the case over with the output shaft pointing up, place something under the planetary to keep it from dropping out of the case ( I used an old 1# metal coffee can).. Lube the output bearing with clean ATF and slide it over the output shaft with the outer groove to the top and use a soft-faced hammer to gently tap the bearing down to it's bore in the case.. The case then gets moved to the press and using a suitable mandrel, and also supporting the planetary inside the case, press the bearing down fully into it's bore until it bottoms out on either the case or the output shaft..

35510362892_7a82a1f871_b.jpg100_2781 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35640049586_bc0f75fb02_b.jpg100_2782 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35510363192_05a26526cc_b.jpg100_2783 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34838409084_6ff4ab4774_b.jpg100_2784 by cc_john67, on Flickr

After setting the case back on the bench, it's time to install the output bearing retainer & gasket.. A new oil seal has been pressed into the bearing retainer and the gasket gets a thin coat of Vaseline before installation..

35679294975_f68c3a317c_b.jpg100_2785 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34838409804_c33912ec24_b.jpg100_2786 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Once the retainer's bolts were torqued to 40 ft.-lbs., it's time to install the output coupling.. After lubing the splines with ATF, the coupling just slides onto the output shaft.. The coupling retainer nut gets installed and snugged down with an impact wrench, the final torquing of 200 ft.-lbs. will be done after the transmission is mounted to the engine..

35679295435_91ed2313f6_b.jpg100_2787 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Continued below..


Edited by CC-John, 18 July 2017 - 03:24 PM.

CC-John

 

"I void warranties"
 
FGRV #1 1973 Century Resorter 16 - Powered by Chrysler LM318 225HP V-8
 
BOAT PICS
 
FGRV #2 1978 Chris*Craft 251 Catalina Express - Powered by PCM 383 Chevy V-8 340HP
 
BOAT PICS
 
FGRV #3 2007 Casita 17SD - Powered by Onan CampPower 2500LP
 
CASITA PICS


#41 CC-John

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  • Gender:Male
  • Trailer Name:No Tell Motel & Cigar Lounge

Posted 26 March 2017 - 07:53 PM

Now it's time to assemble the forward clutch.. After placing the ring gear on the assembly tray and liberally coating the inside with clean ATF (a pump oil can filled with clean transmission fluid makes this a breeze), it's time to start installing the clutch pack.. Start by installing the clutch retainer plate concave side down inside the ring gear, shoot it down with ATF then install the clutch pack.. The first plate installed will be a bronze friction plate followed by a steel reaction plate, alternating plates until five bronze plates and four steel plates are installed.. As each plate is installed, it gets a coat of ATF before installing the next plate.. After the pack is installed, the clutch pressure plate is installed on top of the pack, and is retained by a snap ring..

34838411184_c3e9083eed_b.jpg100_2788 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679295665_59a700e9c3_b.jpg100_2789 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34838411684_c196703d72_b.jpg100_2790 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679295855_997fbdb08b_b.jpg100_2791 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34838412274_03c75e386a_b.jpg100_2792 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679296635_6d16831495_b.jpg100_2793 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34838413674_952ab53496_b.jpg100_2794 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34870285953_c261241bd2_b.jpg100_2795 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Next is to install the clutch spring, the spring is installed on top of the pressure plate with the concave side facing down..

35510352732_6f6d38e0ed_b.jpg100_2798 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34870286403_4a68b2b216_b.jpg100_2799 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Now to assemble the forward clutch piston.. The sealing rings get a coat of Vaseline before installation on the clutch cylinder and piston.. The piston is then installed in the cylinder and pressed in until it bottoms out..

35510353072_760b880b16_b.jpg100_2800 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34870286813_58a80a7f72_b.jpg100_2801 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34838414694_31a268c025_b.jpg100_2802 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35510353222_5ef406bb81_b.jpg100_2803 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34838414934_6c30083f30_b.jpg100_2804 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35292281180_4b51c55b75_b.jpg100_2805 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Now the ring gear is moved back to the press, the clutch cylinder is set in the bore and pressed into the ring gear until it bottoms out on top of the clutch pack.. While maintaining pressure on the cylinder, it's retaining ring is installed and seated in it's groove in the ring gear.. Then the clutch assembly is flipped over and the clutch cylinder is pressed back against it's retaining ring.. After removing the clutch from the press, look to make sure that the black bearing ring hasn't been knocked from it's groove in the piston..

34838415194_5f9ab39ce1_b.jpg100_2806 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35292281340_3483629c83_b.jpg100_2807 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34838415524_802972ddc1_b.jpg100_2808 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35292282250_bc2e3b03e2_b.jpg100_2809 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Stay tuned, there's more to come..

 


Edited by CC-John, 18 July 2017 - 04:17 PM.

CC-John

 

"I void warranties"
 
FGRV #1 1973 Century Resorter 16 - Powered by Chrysler LM318 225HP V-8
 
BOAT PICS
 
FGRV #2 1978 Chris*Craft 251 Catalina Express - Powered by PCM 383 Chevy V-8 340HP
 
BOAT PICS
 
FGRV #3 2007 Casita 17SD - Powered by Onan CampPower 2500LP
 
CASITA PICS


#42 CC-John

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Posted 27 March 2017 - 06:55 AM

Alright lets finish this rascal up..

Next up is to install the cast iron sealing rings on the input shaft, carefully spread the rings in order to slip them over the input shaft and into their grooves.. After installing the rings in their grooves, "lock" the ends together before installing the shaft into the forward clutch..

34838415824_982401d491_b.jpg100_2810 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34870289023_f1b0ff6835_b.jpg100_2812 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Before installing the input shaft into the forward clutch, wipe a thin film of Vaseline over the sealing rings, then insert the shaft thru the clutch cylinder, carefully working the sealing rings thru the cylinder bore.. Then stand the clutch on top of a support (an old coffee can works great), and grab the sun gear on the input shaft to carefully twist the shaft back & forth to allow the splines to mesh up with all the bronze friction plates as the shaft is fully inserted into the clutch.. The shaft is fully seated when the face of the sun gear is flush to slightly below the face of the ring gear..

35549042121_89f86363ed_b.jpg100_2813 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34870289483_400c6799c2_b.jpg100_2814 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35549042421_a77871c021_b.jpg100_2815 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35292282770_e60493731f_b.jpg100_2816 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Setting up a suitable support in the press, place the clutch assembly on the support with the input shaft facing up.. DO NOT let the input shaft drop down out of the clutch or you WILL damage the bronze clutch plate splines during the installation of the support bearing.. With the clutch in place and properly supported, install the input shaft support bearing, lube the bearing, shaft and bearing bore with ATF.. Place the bearing over the input shaft and using a suitable mandrel (I used a scrap of PVC pipe), press the bearing over the input shaft and into it's bore on the clutch cylinder.. After the bearing is fully seated, install the bearing retainer ring and input shaft snap ring, making sure that both rings are fully seated in their respective grooves..

35549042771_56a40a1b8d_b.jpg100_2817 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35292283280_9a26b4f521_b.jpg100_2818 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34870291053_86c75148e5_b.jpg100_2819 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35549043421_5b7c025a0e_b.jpg100_2820 by cc_john67, on Flickr

For the final assembly, stand the case on the output flange inside the assembly tray.. Take a dollop of Vaseline and lube the bushings down in the center bore of the planetary, then wipe a coat on the end of the input shaft.. Wipe a coat of Vaseline on the thrust washer before placing it inside the planetary.. With the thrust washer in place, squirt the planetary down with ATF before installing the input shaft/clutch assembly..

35679298805_c1751eab20_b.jpg100_2821 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34870291603_51a2261be4_b.jpg100_2822 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679299105_ec2a73ec75_b.jpg100_2823 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35549044321_2187c0aa83_b.jpg100_2824 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35640032406_680133a33f_b.jpg100_2825 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35549044721_b675ca9316_b.jpg100_2826 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Grabbing the clutch assembly by the splined end of the input shaft, carefully insert it into the case, slowly twisting it to allow the sun & ring gears to engage the planetary pinions and allowing it to settle down on top of the thrust washer.. When fully installed, the splined end of the ring gear will be just above the reverse clutch face that is machined into the case..

35549044851_a5661cdcb9_b.jpg100_2827 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35549045001_cb0fba2a1d_b.jpg100_2828 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Continued below..


Edited by CC-John, 18 July 2017 - 04:29 PM.

CC-John

 

"I void warranties"
 
FGRV #1 1973 Century Resorter 16 - Powered by Chrysler LM318 225HP V-8
 
BOAT PICS
 
FGRV #2 1978 Chris*Craft 251 Catalina Express - Powered by PCM 383 Chevy V-8 340HP
 
BOAT PICS
 
FGRV #3 2007 Casita 17SD - Powered by Onan CampPower 2500LP
 
CASITA PICS


#43 CC-John

CC-John

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  • 663 posts
  • Local time: 11:41 AM
  • Location:Deep Inside the Central Scrutinizer (77096)
  • Casita Model/Size:2007 Casita 17SD
  • Interests:Classic Fiberglass Boats, Hot Babes, Fine Cigars, & Captain Morgan Rum
  • Gender:Male
  • Trailer Name:No Tell Motel & Cigar Lounge

Posted 27 March 2017 - 06:57 AM

Assembling the reverse clutch begins with installing the three pressure plate locator pins in their recesses in the case, coat the pins with a heavy coat of Vaseline to hold them in place while the rest of the clutch is assembled.. Next is to install the twelve pressure plate return springs in their machined seats in the clutch face.. Next, squirt a coat of ATF on to the clutch face before installing the bronze reverse clutch plate over the exposed ring gear splines..

34838420954_57e3a131df_b.jpg100_2829 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35549045511_45c338def2_b.jpg100_2830 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34838422134_09af095cd0_b.jpg100_2831 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35549046191_77aee06889_b.jpg100_2832 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679300485_431ff5dcde_b.jpg100_2833 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34838423514_d4ac95f4d6_b.jpg100_2834 by cc_john67, on Flickr

After installing the clutch plate, coat the thrust washer with Vaseline and install it on the clutch cylinder face.. Next is to install the reverse pressure plate, it will only fit one way as there are pockets for the return springs in the face and notches for the locator pins in the edge.. There is a "V" shaped notch that must face the top of the case opening to properly index the plate.. When installed, the plate will be flush with the machined face of the case..

35549046831_4b8bf44520_b.jpg100_2835 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679301055_c0f6fb2eba_b.jpg100_2836 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35549047451_13b05526ff_b.jpg100_2837 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679301435_f8a9a12642_b.jpg100_2838 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35549047731_263c228b16_b.jpg100_2839 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679301855_c86cbc0ab9_b.jpg100_2840 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Now to assemble the reverse clutch piston..

Coat the inner sealing ring with Vaseline and install in the groove of the piston pilot, then coat the outer sealing ring with Vaseline and install in the groove on the edge of the reverse piston.. Lay the piston smooth side down onto the pilot of the adapter plate, use a small flat screwdriver to assist the outer sealing ring into the piston bore while pressing the piston into the plate.. Press the piston in until it bottoms out..

35549048201_f9ea4e3d91_b.jpg100_2841 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679303005_d3a6600776_b.jpg100_2842 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35549049271_ca3365eb72_b.jpg100_2843 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679303545_5cd15dc274_b.jpg100_2844 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35549049691_9f0966b28f_b.jpg100_2845 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679303835_f8af88f599_b.jpg100_2846 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Continued...


Edited by CC-John, 18 July 2017 - 04:42 PM.

CC-John

 

"I void warranties"
 
FGRV #1 1973 Century Resorter 16 - Powered by Chrysler LM318 225HP V-8
 
BOAT PICS
 
FGRV #2 1978 Chris*Craft 251 Catalina Express - Powered by PCM 383 Chevy V-8 340HP
 
BOAT PICS
 
FGRV #3 2007 Casita 17SD - Powered by Onan CampPower 2500LP
 
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#44 CC-John

CC-John

    Iconoclast

  • Topic Starter
  • Rally Organizer
  • 663 posts
  • Local time: 11:41 AM
  • Location:Deep Inside the Central Scrutinizer (77096)
  • Casita Model/Size:2007 Casita 17SD
  • Interests:Classic Fiberglass Boats, Hot Babes, Fine Cigars, & Captain Morgan Rum
  • Gender:Male
  • Trailer Name:No Tell Motel & Cigar Lounge

Posted 27 March 2017 - 06:58 AM

To install the adapter plate/reverse piston assembly, coat the case gasket with a thin coat of Vaseline before placing it in place on the case.. Be sure that the gasket's oil holes are properly oriented at the top & bottom of the case.. Pack the input shaft needle bearing with Vaseline before placing the adapter plate on the case, being careful to not dislodge the gasket as the plate is lowered on to the case.. Note that the reverse pressure test plug has to be located at the top of the case.. Once the plate is set down on top of the reverse pressure plate, install the four 12pt. capscrews that secure the plate to the case.. Tighten the screws in a criss-cross pattern to evenly compress the pressure plate springs until the adapter plate contacts the gasket.. Torque the bolts in a criss-cross pattern to 35 foot-pounds..

 

35549050071_6e00ac9bbd_b.jpg100_2847 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679304285_eaff269e6f_b.jpg100_2848 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35640035876_4e191ab020_b.jpg100_2849 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34870296193_980f9172a3_b.jpg100_2850 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35640036076_925d35306f_b.jpg100_2851 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35640036346_57c3e49ffe_b.jpg100_2853 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34870297003_c04f54c2e3_b.jpg100_2854 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

Now the front pump can be installed..

Start by installing the drive key into it's slot on the input shaft, then coat the pump housing sealing ring with Vaseline and install in the recess on the adapter plate.. Next, install the pump gears with a shot of ATF, making sure to install them with the same face facing the adapter plate as they were removed.. Wrap the input shaft splines with tape to protect the input shaft oil seal as the pump housing is installed..

35640036606_bff50302ec_b.jpg100_2855 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34870297233_a0a0c17dda_b.jpg100_2856 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35640036886_22c272c5f8_b.jpg100_2857 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34870297573_0b801b1f78_b.jpg100_2858 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679306275_a69204275c_b.jpg100_2859 by cc_john67, on Flickr

After pressing a new oil seal into the pump housing, note the arrows cast in the outer edge of the housing.. When installing the pump housing, the arrow that matches the engine's crankshaft rotation must be located at the top.. After carefully installing the pump housing over the pump gears, it's secured with four hex head capscrews that are torqued to 20 ft.-lbs. in a criss-cross pattern..

34870297753_2fb2988661_b.jpg100_2860 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679306615_ac326d6712_b.jpg100_2861 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34870298083_655ff45c96_b.jpg100_2862 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34870298333_326925e43e_b.jpg100_2863 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Continued..


Edited by CC-John, 18 July 2017 - 04:55 PM.

CC-John

 

"I void warranties"
 
FGRV #1 1973 Century Resorter 16 - Powered by Chrysler LM318 225HP V-8
 
BOAT PICS
 
FGRV #2 1978 Chris*Craft 251 Catalina Express - Powered by PCM 383 Chevy V-8 340HP
 
BOAT PICS
 
FGRV #3 2007 Casita 17SD - Powered by Onan CampPower 2500LP
 
CASITA PICS


#45 CC-John

CC-John

    Iconoclast

  • Topic Starter
  • Rally Organizer
  • 663 posts
  • Local time: 11:41 AM
  • Location:Deep Inside the Central Scrutinizer (77096)
  • Casita Model/Size:2007 Casita 17SD
  • Interests:Classic Fiberglass Boats, Hot Babes, Fine Cigars, & Captain Morgan Rum
  • Gender:Male
  • Trailer Name:No Tell Motel & Cigar Lounge

Posted 27 March 2017 - 07:00 AM

Next up is to install the control valve..

Lube the valve sealing ring with Vaseline and install in it's groove on the valve.. Lube the valve lands with Vaseline before installing it in it's bore in the case, pressing the valve in until it bottoms out.. Turn the valve until the notch on the end is aligned with the bottom hole for the cover screws before installing the cam for the neutral safety switch.. Lube the cam with Vaseline and place it over the end of the control valve with the cam's tang engaged in the valve's notch.. Coat the gasket with Vaseline, install the cover plate and secure with three capscrews torqued to 10 foot-pounds.. Then install the neutral safety switch and tighten securely..

34870298343_fd635b1f5b_b.jpg100_2864 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34870298433_f7cf38771d_b.jpg100_2865 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34870298603_6aeaf4ab52_b.jpg100_2866 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34870298763_0d45746dcc_b.jpg100_2867 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679308005_79ec29e52c_b.jpg100_2868 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

34838435404_b0124524d6_b.jpg100_2869 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679308555_878e61aab1_b.jpg100_2870 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35549055091_f38068790a_b.jpg100_2871 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679309005_7b14283efc_b.jpg100_2872 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35549055641_47a784f3a3_b.jpg100_2873 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679309385_091f6b3f8e_b.jpg100_2874 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35549056091_bcedc9ee74_b.jpg100_2875 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Now to install the control lever, it helps to roll the transmission over on it's side with end of the control valve facing up..

Lube the detent spring with Vaseline and install in it's bore next to the control valve, coat the detent ball with Vaseline and set it on top of the spring.. Now install the control lever, being careful not to dislodge the detent ball.. Press the lever down on to the end of the control valve and secure with a flat washer, lock washer and nut, torqued to 10 foot-pounds..

35679309815_2aee5f0657_b.jpg100_2877 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35549056851_c4fee94022_b.jpg100_2878 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679310225_562fb0f1b2_b.jpg100_2879 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35640041096_3b339525cd_b.jpg100_2880 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35679310555_f7b9333413_b.jpg100_2881 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35640041496_5bae7d31c1_b.jpg100_2882 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Finally install the dipstick in it's hole and this rascal is DONE!! Now it's off to the paint shop..

35679310975_269a4030a5_b.jpg100_2883 by cc_john67, on Flickr

 

35640041846_0d520e3b1a_b.jpg100_2884 by cc_john67, on Flickr


Edited by CC-John, 18 July 2017 - 05:08 PM.

CC-John

 

"I void warranties"
 
FGRV #1 1973 Century Resorter 16 - Powered by Chrysler LM318 225HP V-8
 
BOAT PICS
 
FGRV #2 1978 Chris*Craft 251 Catalina Express - Powered by PCM 383 Chevy V-8 340HP
 
BOAT PICS
 
FGRV #3 2007 Casita 17SD - Powered by Onan CampPower 2500LP
 
CASITA PICS