Jump to content


Photo

Anode Rod Removal


  • Please log in to reply
16 replies to this topic

#1 Txjenny

Txjenny
  • Casita Club Member
  • 37 posts
  • Local time: 06:21 AM
  • Casita Model/Size:Oliver Legacy Elite
  • Gender:Female

Posted 31 March 2011 - 09:03 PM

I can not get the water anode out


Good Evening Dex,
I kept reading about something called an anode rod. When I finally got around to investigating this, I discovered that there was no way I could dislodge it because it was rusted. I had no strength to turn a wrench and I thought it was stuck forever and I had ruined whatever it was attached to. ( I still have a lot to learn about fiberglass rv's.) First things first. I sprayed it with WD 40 and let it set for a while. Wouldn't budge! Then I thought about the big wrenches I see for tractors. Off to Tractor Supply I went after drawing an outline of the top of the anode rod so they could hopefully help me find some tool that I could attach and then turn the anode rod. I bought a folding ratchet wrench about 29 inches long with 3" attachment that would fit on the head of the anode rod. My excitement was growing! Would I succeed in getting that pesky little anode rod out? Because of the leverage of the folding ratchet wrench it only took one push to loosen the rod. I was so happy I hadn't ruined it. Carefully, I unscrewed it then by hand and very carefully wiped the wd 40 from the threads?? so it wouldn't contaminate the water tank. The new anode rod has to be level so that it will thread correctly. Be careful not to overtighten so as not to strip the threads. If threads are stripped, I was told that a new water heater is the only option. I hope this tale helps others figure out how to extract the anode rod from their water tank.

TXJenny

My post in reference to the anode rod, was more for the "girls" who might need that first step in the now that I have found out where it is what do I do category. In no way was it meant to insult Dex's intelligence that he couldn't figure out how to remove it. I have learned and continue to learn so much because others are so willing to share their knowledge and solutions of the path taken before. Some topics that might seem insignificant and not worth commenting on have been invaluable to me as I strive to take the best care of my little rv that I can. I have even replaced the 7 pin plug which was a comedy in itself but that is a topic and story for another day. Newbies out there - YOU CAN DO IT! Just ask the forum members!

Edited by Txjenny, 01 April 2011 - 07:31 PM.


#2 Muttley

Muttley
  • Casita Club Member
  • 872 posts
  • Local time: 04:21 AM
  • Location:Lizard Acres, Arizona
  • Casita Model/Size:2002 17SD
  • Gender:Couple

Posted 31 March 2011 - 09:34 PM

I removed mine a few days ago using a 1 1/16 socket an extension and my 2' breaker bar. I have a 2002 17' SD. I don't know if all years are the same. Casita uses Suburban brand heaters. Atwood is different.

I flushed a load of scale out of the heater.
2002 SD 17 'Tinker Toy'
2010 Nissan Xterra

#3 Dex

Dex
  • Casita Club Member
  • 926 posts
  • Local time: 04:21 AM

Posted 01 April 2011 - 07:45 AM

I removed mine a few days ago using a 1 1/16 socket an extension and my 2' breaker bar. I have a 2002 17' SD. I don't know if all years are the same. Casita uses Suburban brand heaters. Atwood is different.

I flushed a load of scale out of the heater.


Do I go to Home Depot and ask for a breaker bar and how much do they costs.

I have the correct size socket and a normal size ratchet.

I've only used my water heater once about 5 years ago. I've never used the shower or toilet. Strange to some, but I stay at RV parks. Do you think I would have the same scales you mention?

At the time I got my Casita people on this board didn't mention having the people at Casita loosen the bar so that you could remove it by hand. Good advise everyone should know about.


Thanks

Edited by Dex, 01 April 2011 - 07:49 AM.

2006 17' Spirit owner since July 18, 2006
Tow Vehicle - 2000 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab 4X4-Sport V-6 3.9L, Automatic Sports Plus Package, 31X10.5 tires, Limited Slip Differential, 4.10 gear ratio, Trailer Tow Group pkg(transmission & oil cooler, class IV hitch, wiring), Heavy Duty package (automatic Overdrive, battery upgrade, front & rear anti sway bars) Package

#4 roadcam

roadcam
  • Casita Club Member
  • 201 posts
  • Local time: 03:21 AM
  • Location:Fulltimer
  • Casita Model/Size:2009 FD 17'
  • Interests:my dog 'Sybil', survival in a 17' trailer, photography, computers
  • Gender:Male

Posted 01 April 2011 - 08:25 AM

be sure you replace the new anode rod DRY, no thread lubricant or teflon tape, etc.. - it will interfere with the necessary current flow to disrupt the damaging electrolysis ... (that's why they can be tough to remove)
2009 Casita 17' FD
2008 Ford E-250 Supervan

" if you don't care where you're going, you're never lost - if you don't care when you get there, you're never late "

http://sunseekerimages.blogspot.com/

#5 Chris Z

Chris Z
  • Casita Club Member
  • 788 posts
  • Local time: 07:21 AM
  • Location:Louisville, Ky
  • Casita Model/Size:2005 17' SD
  • Gender:Male

Posted 01 April 2011 - 09:25 AM

Dex..... did you try with a normal ratchet? Mine was not that abnormally tight and came out fine. Since I take it in and out for camping season, it never gets that tough to get out.
A cheaper version of getting more leverage is to put pipe over the end of the ratchet to get more length and leverage.

Edited by Chris Z, 01 April 2011 - 09:26 AM.

#2077 Louisville, Ky
2006 Black Chevy Suburban
2005 17' Casita Spirit Deluxe

#6 Bobinyelm

Bobinyelm
  • Casita Club Member
  • 4,217 posts
  • Local time: 06:21 AM
  • Location:Waxahachie, TX

Posted 01 April 2011 - 09:44 AM

be sure you replace the new anode rod DRY, no thread lubricant or teflon tape, etc.. - it will interfere with the necessary current flow to disrupt the damaging electrolysis ... (that's why they can be tough to remove)


This, of course, may only apply to those who have an anode rod incorporating an electric heating element (i.e., a "Hot Rod") to effectively ground the rod.

Even then, Teflon paste will allow enough electrical contact for effective grounding (Teflon tape may NOT, however).

Bob

#7 Indy-hp

Indy-hp
  • Casita Club Member
  • 333 posts
  • Local time: 06:21 AM
  • Location:Houston, Texas
  • Casita Model/Size:2003 17' SD
  • Gender:Not Telling

Posted 01 April 2011 - 10:57 AM

I removed mine a few days ago using a 1 1/16 socket an extension and my 2' breaker bar. I have a 2002 17' SD. I don't know if all years are the same. Casita uses Suburban brand heaters. Atwood is different.

I flushed a load of scale out of the heater.

Do I go to Home Depot and ask for a breaker bar and how much do they costs.

I have the correct size socket and a normal size ratchet.

I've only used my water heater once about 5 years ago. I've never used the shower or toilet. Strange to some, but I stay at RV parks. Do you think I would have the same scales you mention?

At the time I got my Casita people on this board didn't mention having the people at Casita loosen the bar so that you could remove it by hand. Good advise everyone should know about.


Thanks

I bought my 18" breaker bar at the local auto parts store for about $20. Any place that sells tools will have them. Its just a long-handled 1/2" ratchet wrench without the ratchet mechanism.

be sure you replace the new anode rod DRY, no thread lubricant or teflon tape, etc.. - it will interfere with the necessary current flow to disrupt the damaging electrolysis ... (that's why they can be tough to remove)

I've used both teflon tape and teflon pipe dope on my anode threads (though not at the same time) and the anode still erodes just fine. The threads will cut through the tape or dope sufficiently to make electrical contact with each other.
Henry & Debbie
2010 Honda Ridgeline

#8 Don in OKC

Don in OKC
  • Casita Club Member
  • 4,533 posts
  • Local time: 06:21 AM

Posted 01 April 2011 - 12:22 PM

TXJenny;

You did good!

If the anode is removed twice a year it'll screw in/out easily........even if ya just look at it and put it back in..it's good to do. When you put it back in it's not necessary to 'honk down' on it with as much effort as it took to come out......it just needs to seal, and that doesn't take much torque.

I ground down a bolt so it'd fit in a 1/2" socket on one end, and the Casita 4-way tire tool on the other. The 4 way helps you to keep leverage on the socket since your pushing/pulling on each end.

It worked great!

Attached Thumbnails

  • Casita anode tool.jpg

Don in OKC - (Useta have a) 2000 16' LD, 98 Chrysler T&C

#9 Txjenny

Txjenny
  • Topic Starter
  • Casita Club Member
  • 37 posts
  • Local time: 06:21 AM
  • Casita Model/Size:Oliver Legacy Elite
  • Gender:Female

Posted 01 April 2011 - 02:27 PM

TXJenny;

You did good!

If the anode is removed twice a year it'll screw in/out easily........even if ya just look at it and put it back in..it's good to do. When you put it back in it's not necessary to 'honk down' on it with as much effort as it took to come out......it just needs to seal, and that doesn't take much torque.

I ground down a bolt so it'd fit in a 1/2" socket on one end, and the Casita 4-way tire tool on the other. The 4 way helps you to keep leverage on the socket since your pushing/pulling on each end.

It worked great!

Thanks Don. After reading the other posts, I see that I could have used smaller ratchets and extensions but at the time I had no knowledge of other solutions. I did try the 4 way tire tool but it wouldn't fit. I also have a small ratchet that wouldn't clear some tubes that were in front of the anode rod. Having limited knowledge of tools and not enough strength to unlodge the rod, I chose the longer ratchet and extension that fit the anode rod head hoping the leverage would help me accomplish my mission. Now to master the next challenge!

Edited by Txjenny, 01 April 2011 - 07:13 PM.


#10 Rob and Linda

Rob and Linda
  • Casita Club Member
  • 428 posts
  • Local time: 06:21 AM
  • Location:Hurst, Texas (Fort Worth/Dallas area)
  • Casita Model/Size:2010 17' Spirit Deluxe
  • Interests:Photography, woodworking, fly fishing, hiking/backpacking, audio, Porsches, Corvettes!
  • Gender:Male

Posted 02 April 2011 - 06:40 AM

be sure you replace the new anode rod DRY, no thread lubricant or teflon tape, etc.. - it will interfere with the necessary current flow to disrupt the damaging electrolysis ... (that's why they can be tough to remove)




When I removed the anode rod from our mostly-new 2010 17SD, it was thoroughly wrapped with teflon tape... straight from the factory. Further, the erosion of the anode rod clearly revealed that it had been faithfully doing it's sacrificial duty. When I install the new rod as I get ready for spring, I will use teflon tape exactly as the factory did.

Rob

Rob & Linda, Hurst, Texas
Our Casita Photos
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rfpd300/5885403495/in/set-72157626742329244
2010 Spirit Deluxe "Dinky"
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser w/TRD Supercharger

RobLinda.jpgNewMexicoSunset-720-1.jpgDSC_867711_zps3711a5da.jpg


#11 Carol Christensen

Carol Christensen
  • Rally Organizer
  • 2,390 posts
  • Local time: 04:21 AM
  • Location:NV - Carson/Reno Area
  • Casita Model/Size:2005 17' LD - "Nova"
  • Interests:Travel, camping, pets, mother nature, wildlife behavior, being outdoors to enjoy it all.
  • Gender:Female
  • Casita Club Directory #:1009

Posted 02 April 2011 - 08:24 AM

Like Rob, we have always used Teflon tape. I checked with Jack and he says, he just makes sure the tape is wrapped very tightly around the threads so loose pieces don't break off and get into the tank. When we store the trailer for the winter, the water heater is emptied and flushed out, the anode removed and a PVC threaded plug is used to plug the hole. The PVC plug is easy to remove, it's just to keep unwanted critters out. If the anode is not very eroded we will reuse it for one more year, then replace it.
Carol Christensen
2005 17' LD Nova & 2001 Toyota 4Runner

pre-Nova was Ova-the-Rainbow 1999 17' LD (sold)



Don't believe everything you think.

#12 Vince and Gretchen

Vince and Gretchen
  • Casita Club Member
  • 78 posts
  • Local time: 04:21 AM
  • Location:Palm Desert, CA
  • Casita Model/Size:FD 17'
  • Gender:Male
  • Casita Club Directory #:3059

Posted 03 April 2011 - 06:59 AM

I removed mine a few days ago using a 1 1/16 socket an extension and my 2' breaker bar. I have a 2002 17' SD. I don't know if all years are the same. Casita uses Suburban brand heaters. Atwood is different.

I flushed a load of scale out of the heater.


Just one thing, be sure to use a 6-point socket, not a 12-point one. The 12-point sockets can round over the six points on the anode rod, making it almost impossible to remove unless you file off the rounded points and/or tap the six-point socket onto the anode rod's end.

Good luck,

Vince
<b>Vince And Gretchen
Gunbarrel, CO, between Boulder and Longmont
2011 17' FD
TV: 06 4runner V8</b>

#13 ArizonaEileen

ArizonaEileen
  • Rally Organizer
  • 3,769 posts
  • Local time: 04:21 AM
  • Location:Phoenix (Ahwatukee) AZ
  • Casita Model/Size:2007 SD 17
  • Gender:Female
  • Casita Club Directory #:2258

Posted 05 April 2011 - 02:41 AM

be sure you replace the new anode rod DRY, no thread lubricant or teflon tape, etc.. - it will interfere with the necessary current flow to disrupt the damaging electrolysis ... (that's why they can be tough to remove)


Actually, teflon tape does not interfere. Most owners do use it, including me.

Eileen
07 17 SD "Casa de Suenos" | 09 Ford F150 XLT "White Night"
A-Z Casita Owners Guide / Store / Rallies: www.LoveMyCasita.com

Photos: Casita Travel Photo Albums

#14 travlinbob

travlinbob
  • Casita Club Member
  • 687 posts
  • Local time: 05:21 AM
  • Location:KS
  • Interests:Family, travel, surfing the web, researching historical places and events, maps and charts, travel, cars, sailing, light sport aircraft and photography.
  • Gender:Male
  • Casita Club Directory #:3005

Posted 05 April 2011 - 02:58 PM

I too have always used Teflon tape. Though no one has mentioned it, the Teflon tape will make the anode far easier to remove as it acts like a lubricant. Be sure not to cross thread the anode when you put it back in. I use a pair of vise grips to grip the anode to get it started back in. A pair of channel locks or a socket with a long extension can also be used to get the anode plug started back in. Tighten it as far as you can by hand before tightening it with a short handled wrench and tighten it snug but donít over tighten it.

Bob


09 C17SD "Rancho Casita", high lift axle, and 15" load range "D" Marathons
01 Chevy Blazer and 07 Trail Blazer

#15 Ron B.

Ron B.
  • Casita Club Member
  • 345 posts
  • Local time: 06:21 AM
  • Location:Tyler, Texas (East Texas)
  • Casita Model/Size:1996 Spirit Deluxe 16'
  • Interests:Honda Ridgeline RTL/Nav
    Love the outdoors. Nature and spending time with my wife and dog give me pleasure. I may have cancer but, cancer doesn't have me...
    Good music is a plus!
  • Gender:Male

Posted 24 June 2011 - 04:14 PM

When I took my Casita to have the new shore cord installed (actually replaced) the service manager took my rod out and replaced it with a new one. He used teflon tape and told me to always use it when I took it out and replaced it. As others have said, the threads cut the tape and does not restrict the electrical flow.
I haven't done a very good job of keeping an eye on mine but, I will in the future. The rod he removed was almost completely eaten away. There was a lot of calcium in the heater also. I think I will just replace mine every year to be safe...
Ron B